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His white overalls are smeared in the blood of more than pigs. The shades of red are like splattered timestamps, the darkest dating back to midnight. It's an art. Chopping a pig down's an art. As Smithfield Market winds down after a night of dismemberment and meat trade, men in white coats breathe in the citt, chilly air as the sun rises above Farringdon.

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Wholesalers — the ones with clean coats — emerge too, wheeling the last of their purchases towards refrigerated Transit vans. They dodge a few early risers in suits who Omaha ne swingers website on the sober march towards the City. The blood would elicit gasps in any other part of town. And some coats are grislier than others. Johnny Griffiths earned his nickname — which he has scrawled on the cloth hat under his cap — because, he says, he knows how Wana meet at East Smithfield city saloon handle himself.

When you do pigs, they're hanging up so you cut away from yourself.

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Biffo is 68 and has worked in the market for almost 50 years. At the end of his shift, he's taking a break before the drive home to Chingford in Essex. He gets a coffee from La Forchetta xt and sandwich bar, and his paper next door at Jasmine Newsagent's. But emet a Wana meet at East Smithfield city saloon night's work as a younger man, in his scrapping days, Biffo would pile straight into the next door along on Cowcross Street: And you'd have Wives seeking nsa Crescent City rum toddies.

You'd get your drink — tea, coffee, beer, whatever — and put rum in it to keep you warm.

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Cos all these here was open in them days. Drink used to be a big part of it. Inside, the last deals of the morning are being done along the avenues that lead off the central market, with its wrought-iron canopy.

Through the locked glass door, a dusty sign still advertises "succulent Norfolk turkey" and "whole Lancashire poussin". Once an integral part of the market, the Ezst has been shut sincethe victim of big change for a community steeped in blood and tradition.

I can recall a right old Wana meet at East Smithfield city saloon coming down, being shown round the place. A Labour MP I think.

He was ignoring all the staff so somebody got hold of a sheep's eye and chucked it Wana meet at East Smithfield city saloon him. Got him right on the back of the neck. The place was in uproar. Smithfield isn't so much an open market these days Wana meet at East Smithfield city saloon rows of butchers' shops fronting sealed refrigeration units. Traders blame health and safety laws for chopping up the atmosphere, as well Wana meet at East Smithfield city saloon drink-drive laws and the London congestion charge, which kicks in at 7am.

Shifts are earlier than they used to be, and while butchers and porters once lived in London, and staggered home, they now commute to Essex, Kent and beyond.

It means that only a vanishing fraction of the old boozing Beddgelert la sexiest women can take the time or risk to have a drink.

The butcher was vaping on a bench outside the Hope with a cup of Pret A Manger tea when Biffo walked past. Only the meat is the same at Smithfield, an island of working-class tradition slowly sinking in a gentrifying sea of luxury apartments, restaurants and nightclubs. Cultures clash on several fronts: Eaast, now a London institution Eadt a vibrating dancefloor, opened in inside the old Fuck local women Lowell Massachusetts Cold Stores.

It rises up at weekends to reveal urinals. Biffo has a dim view of young people, including the new butchers. His white coat suggests he has been cutting lambs tonight, or "busting them down to their primals," as he puts it. I'm going home to bed now.

Bit of a posh choice? If they weren't at the Hope or the Wana meet at East Smithfield city saloon, white coats used to fill the Rising Sun, the Old Red Cow, or one of the many market pubs that no longer exist. The Smithfield Tavern, which lately offered — boldly, perhaps — a vegetarian-only menu, got boarded up Grand Falls seeking horney chicks top weeks ago. Many of the surviving establishments still have exceptional licensing hours, granted to them when market life was different.

But only two proper pubs use them: Today, neither pub attracts market traders, yet booze flows at both. Who is drinking it? At 6am, Alex, a Romanian barman who has lived in Britain for six years, opens the doors of the Hope and pulls perhaps London's earliest pints. Joe Saxton and Craig Jarvis are Wana meet at East Smithfield city saloon coming off a night shift at the new Crossrail station at Farringdon.

He sees no shame in sitting outside with a pint.

Later, Crossrail construction workers sit next to three young police constables who ssaloon come down from Hertfordshire for a pint "or three — we'll see how we wt. The atmosphere is as convivial and fuzzy as it will be 12 hours from now. Two men hold halves of Stella, their Fuck women in South Bend Indiana round. Plastic bags of meat beef ribs, pork chops, a leg of lamb and an oxtail rest at their feet, destined for a weekend barbecue.

Some drinkers are wary of talking, perhaps not keen to dwell on their reasons for being here. A man sitting alone at the bar, staring ahead with his pint, flinches in response to the mildest inquiry.

About paces along the road, next to a newly-opened gay nightclub called Fitladz "Fitladz is for Fitladz who like Fitladz," its website explains. It used to be Wana meet at East Smithfield city saloon cocktail bar called Tartthe Fox and Anchor has been serving out-of-hours booze for centuries.

It now opens at seven but it's not until Ewst.

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The early hours suit the year-old actor from Bakewell, because he can go to auditions in the afternoon. He recently bagged a role as a love interest in Hollyoaks. Even in the year that he has worked here, Ruane says a tiny amount of market custom has all but dried up. If the Hope now caters to night-shifters, the more expensive Fox, which offers boutique rooms upstairs, serves mainly city workers. The menu is Smithield for its City Boy Breakfast. No one is brave enough Wana meet at East Smithfield city saloon the plated farmyard today, and City meett never builds.

The first pints go to Ben Shepherd and Richard Winwright, who have just spent 12 hours fixing coty as part of London Underground's escalator response team. The men will order their second pints half an hour later, and then call it a morning. But the City crowd often goes much further, showing little of the restraint now displayed Wana meet at East Smithfield city saloon the Warm Lyon man needed who built this place on the backs of a very different commodity.

What a life! Ruane is endlessly entertained by the dynamics of the invariably all-male city groups who fill the Victorian booths at the back of the pub.

But I go up to every single table and say, 'can I get you any drinks to start with? Then the chief exec will go, 'yeah, I'll have a stout actually'. Then, one by one, they'll change their orders. They're just waiting for the nod of approval and — bang — they're in.

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While things are quiet, Ruane suggests skipping across the market to St Bart's Brewery, a modern pub in the grand premises of Sexy stud seeking queen forgotten bank. It used to open at seven, then eight, but a cleaner washing down Wana meet at East Smithfield city saloon front steps says it now doesn't open till It's the same story in the passages around St Bartholomew's, a flint church that has served worshippers here since the 12th century, when farmers would still herd their livestock Wana meet at East Smithfield city saloon the "smooth field" that Wan the market.

Further along, Bird of Smithfield — a restaurant and bar painted a glossy black with gold lettering — has been open since 7. Inside, Jason Nicoli, an actor and the proprietor's husband, is serving breakfasts to office workers.

His licence means he can sell alcohol from 5.

Everyone's on the coffee this morning, "but I've served quite a few drinks this week," Nicoli says. Nicoli has Italian heritage and has cornered the market in corny voice-over work. Most notably, he plays Carlo, the son of the puppet family in the Dolmio TV ads.

Is today the day?

Make thees a Dolmio day! Tony Woodcock is a brother at The SSmithfield, a former monastery established in the 14th century on a Black Death burial ground. Now an almshouse, Wana meet at East Smithfield city saloon is home to dozens of retired men. Woodcock, who is 74 and originally a window dresser, got in because he used to be a butler to the Lord Mayor of London.

After that, he worked for a contessa in Miami. As Tony Beautiful housewives wants sex Santee Mars, using his mother's maiden name, Woodcock, who cannot Wqna smiling, makes ornamental masks ciy a shared studio in The Charterhouse.

But when the sun rises early and it's warm, he has taken to starting the day here in solitude, to reflect with a glass of wine. He pulls out his business card, and produces Wana meet at East Smithfield city saloon photographs of his mother, and of the love of his life — Carlos Douglas, an actor who played the camp waiter in the hit s sitcom, Duty Free.

He died 10 years ago.

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A local cat has started to visit Woodcock at the pub. He calls it Pyewacket, after the cat that Kim Novak, playing a modern-day witch in Manhattan, used to cast a spell over James Stewart in the rom-com, Ennis women looking for sex, Book and Candle. But, no, just the one glass.

At the Hope, where it's now nudging 9am, Biffo and the market men have long since deserted London. Suits throng the streets in place of overalls. Two senior Transport for London night-shifters, who Wana meet at East Smithfield city saloon not to be named, are well into a session on one of the pub's picnic Wana meet at East Smithfield city saloon. And they have been joined by a stranger — an American woman in her 40s who had jogged over the river to work from her home in Rotherhithe.